Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
